Wait for it: Smith's

I know you know there's a foodie post coming about my trip with The Scot to Gordon Ramsey at The London, but I've been putting Smith's off long enough, especially as I've been twice and am likely to go back.

On the first visit, we were seated close to the door, but the thick velvet curtains kept me well protected from the wintry draft. East Coast Guy thought I'd have a better view looking down the dining hall - it's been accurately described as a rail car - but as it turned out, all the cool people were standing by the door, waiting (they do take reservations), including Ali Larter from Heroes, with her mom (or someone pretending to be her mom). We began with Arugula with Gala Apples, Parmigiano Reggiano and Hazelnut Balsamic Vinaigrette, and Steamed Fall Beans with Lemon Olive Oil and Garlic. We proceeded to Pan Seared Chatham Cod with Black Pepper Tagliatelli and Gremolata*, Boneless Pork Chop with Celery Root and Apple Purèe and Braised Pork Cheeks, and concluded with Warm Apple Pie with Caramel and Ginger Ice Cream. The food was fantastic, especially the cod and the pie, and the service was warm and attentive, but never annoying.

On the second visit, I arrived early and headed to the bar in the back to enjoy a cocktail. I'm not a big fan of bourbon, but as I'm sure you know, I love maple. So I ordered The Smith, a combination of bourbon, maple syrup and lemon on the rocks (now that would be much tastier than the master cleanse). I asked the bartender to almost double the maple, and it was just fine. When the table was ready, I was seated by Ms. Cindy Smith herself, who asked me how I liked the cocktail - apparently they named it after her as she hails from the Bluegrass State, but she doesn't actually enjoy bourbon, so she'd never had one. I told her I preferred rye (unblended), but that it was fine.

This time, we started with the Charred Cape Cod Baby Squid with Lemon Confit, Olives and Pancetta, added the Sauteed Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Almonds (which were absolutely the best best best ever, hands down), and the Roasted Eggplant with Piquillo Peppers, Raisins and Sherry Vinegar, and then had the Line Caught Wild Striped Bass with Flageolet Beans and Guanciale** Stew. The Brussels sprouts were shredded, instead of served whole, and were just insanely beautifully flavoured and seasoned. Ms. Smith stopped by again, to see how things were, and we raved. And then East Coast Guy asked permission to comment on a dish we hadn't enjoyed quite so much, the eggplant. He politely and candidly said that it seemed overly vinegared, that otherwise it was fine, but was just a little piquant for our liking. Instead of snooting up, Ms. Smith was perfectly gracious. She thanked us for letting her know, said that she'd read that in a review or two, but that those aren't always balanced, as it were, and promised to let the kitchen know and make a change right away. And she bought us a round of drinks! That's a restauranteur.

We concluded with the Warm Chocolate Brownie with peanut butter mousse and candied sautéed peanuts. The peanuts were to die for. And we went home happy.

*Gremolata
**Guanciale

Screw California II

Or the wait-staff, at a minimum.

Let's be clear that the vast majority of those involved were more than pleasant and helpful. The hotel staff put up with us politely (although the expression on the face of the bar supervisor on the night we went out for unlimited margaritas in Santa Monica, followed by karaoke night back at the hotel made me want to slide up next to her and inquire, quietly, whether she'd like her face to freeze like that), and in a few instances (when my non-smoking hotel room was clearly in violation of the rules, for example) were stellar.

The night we went to Elevate for drinks before eating at Takami Sushi, I handed the bartender $15 for a $12 cocktail and he made no attempt to provide change. Ahem. I was definitely planning to tip, but I like to choose the amount, thank you very much. The good news is that the dinner that night was excellent (various sashimi and sushi dishes), and the restaurant staff dealt well with the mostly tipsy party of 16 (it was only a semi-voluntary party of 16, let's be clear).

But I digress - this was supposed to be the post about Osteria Mozza.

Josh Lyman and I took a (relatively) long cab ride from downtown to the restaurant. (Oh, and I wore my new Ted Baker top with brown tights & boots.) We were early, so waited at the bar with a cocktail and tried not to be over-engaged in conversation with the gentleman at the bar who was clearly interested in keeping us around. We were seated at the end of a banquette row - amazing how much more room there is in non-NYC restaurants, I wasn't even close to sitting on the annoying women next to us. The waiter, Roman in appearance and hoity-toity in attidude, reviewed the menu with us thoroughly, and we chose the following: Grilled Octopus with potatoes, celery & lemon, Burricotti with braised artichokes, pine nuts, currants & mint pesto, Linguine with clams, pancetta & spicy Fresno chiles, and Guinea Hen Crostone with liver pancetta sauce.

The sommelier, who could have been 12 and was clearly wearing a well tailored Ted Baker suit, ignored Josh's Pietmontese heritage and recommended ... something else (am really going to have to start making tableside notes on the wines), white at any rate, that was fantastic. There was a duck dish on the menu that was served with a side of brussels sprouts (my other regular must have is octopus, as you may have noticed), and Josh asked if we could have the sprouts sans duck. The Roman checked with the kitchen and they agreed to side them for us.

This is where things got ugly.

The brussels sprouts were well cooked, al dente, if you will, but over-vinegared. I tried them several times, but really couldn't eat them. Let's be clear that the rest of the food was delicious. I'd had a recent vinegar-y experience at Smith's (so backlogged I've been there again in the intervening weeks, but soon to be blogged) that suggested serious restauranteurs and their staff sometimes appreciate honest feedback. So when the Roman asked how the food was, I told him that I thought the sprouts were overly piquant. He looked a little surprised (perhaps people in LA fake it with their food?), and said he'd go and check with the kitchen. He came back shortly and proceeded to inform us that the fault was ours.

You heard me. If we'd ordered them as paired by the restaurant, instead of as a side, he said, the sweetness of the duck would have ... counter balanced or mitigated or somehow overcome the vinegar, and everything would have been just fine. Followed with a slight sneer. I was appalled, as was Josh. Given that he'd ostensibly checked with the kitchen in the first place, this is surely a point that could have been made in advance. And he left them on the bill, after we'd complained and clearly not finished eating them. So we skipped dessert and docked his tip. Not a lot, but enough to be noticeable.

And then proceeded to meet a friend of Josh's at a bar called Lola's to wash the taste from our mouths with dirty martinis. Mmmmm.

E.U.

Midwest Medved was in town again, so we went to The E.U. for dinner, and were mostly happy. We started with a charcuterie plate, which was a mixed experience - parts were like cubes of bologna, for example, the grilled octopus - delightful, fresh oysters - which were delish - and lamb with cucumber and mint (which I don't remember), and brussels sprouts - also delish. And the waiter helped us find a lovely bottle of wine.

I confess that I have waited too long to blog this, and further details escape me. We agreed that there were hits and misses on the menu, but the waiter was really good, and that almost made us forget about the misses.

She cooks!

It's been a long, long time, since I made a real dinner, and longer since I made it for anyone but me. But I got inspired (and had the time), so I cooked.

Seared Tuna Pepper Steaks
Tuscan Beans with Sage
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Garlic and Pancetta
Creamy Dairyless Rice Pudding*

I made the rice pudding first, then the beans. The sprouts were easy to prepare, and the tuna took seconds, and only 2 minutes a side in the pan. Simple, and delicious.

Why don't I do this more often?

*East Coast Guy doesn't do dairy.

Fruits of my labor

It's not that I haven't been treating myself lately, but aren't we all sure I need this also?

I mean, I'm sure the women in Geneva and Brussels all have them ...