Sweet, sweet po-tay-toe

The colours at the Greenmarket have shifted from plum, grass and pomegranate to rust, gold and forest, there's a crisp to the air, and I wore a puffy vest for the first time today.

To celebrate, here's my classic sweet potato souffle recipe, originally found in Southern Living magazine (but strangely not available online). It's been a tradition at Canadian and American Thanksgivings chez moi for at least 12 years, and next weekend, I'll be making it for my wee blonde cousins in Concord, Mass.

Sweet Potato Souffle - serves 12

(Notes: I peel the potatoes and cut them into chunks before I boil and mash them. I also use a stand mixer, but it's not mandatory.)

For the souffle:

• 1 & 3/4 cup whipping cream
• 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1 tsp salt
• 4 cups mashed sweet potatoes (4-5 med to large sweet potatoes)
• 6 eggs, separated
• 2 tsp each cinnamon & nutmeg
• 1 cup finely chopped pecans

Combine the cream, sugar and salt in a heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until hot. Do not boil (believe me, this is easy to do). Pour over mashed sweet potatoes, and beat on low. Beat yolks, and stir the yolks, spices and pecans into the potatoes. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold into the potato mixture. Pour the souffle into two greased, 2 quart casseroles, and set aside.

For the topping:

• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup whipping cream
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 1 cup finely chopped pecans
• 1/3 cup self-rising flour
• 1 tsp rum or maple extract
• (optional 1 cup shredded coconut - I never include it, but it's in the original recipe)
  

Combine butter, whipping cream, sugar, and pecans in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring until bubbly. Stir in 1/3 cup flour and the extract of your choice. Spoon over casseroles. Bake at 350 for 30 minutes (I pop it in the oven after I pull the turkey out to rest).

I usually cook one casserole immediately, along with whatever additional sides I'm cooking/warming, and place the second casserole in the oven when the meal goes to the table, so it will be ready for seconds. Warning, your guests will compete for the topping.